| Part I: It has been 41 plus years since the fateful day of 4 September 1967. The Marines who fought and survived that day still carry the scars of the insanity that occurred during this horrific battle which marked the beginning of Operation Swift. Many of the Marines who returned continue to bear the consequences of witnessing the deaths and life-changing events suffered by their Marine brethren. Those who were not there are not able to understand the tragic toll the Vietnam War took upon its veterans. This misunderstanding was compounded by the fact that many vets returned to no welcome home, no parades and no thank you for a job well done. Many Marines went to war as innocent young men and returned home with both youth and innocence forever taken from them. In returning home to indifference at best and intolerance most likely, we looked out for each other here at home (if at all possible) as we had while serving in Vietnam. This reliance upon each other in life or death situations formed a bond between us that the general population will never know or understand.
There are many reasons for returning to the scene of battle. For me it was to try to piece together what I did remember with the unknown or forgotten reality of what really did happen when I was there 40 plus years ago. Others might feel a need to return to finally, hopefully, put to rest the demons that have haunted us ever since our tour of duty.
Of course a very special reason that we all had for returning was to pay special tribute to our fallen brother Marines, Navy Corpsmen and one very special chaplain. Recently a group of us from M Company, 3/5 Marines who had participated in Operation Swift had the opportunity to return. With the experiences we shared there, our group became even closer as we together remembered what we had endured and survived.
Our group consisted of our guide, Ed Henry, veteran of many Vietnam vet returns; his assistant Bob Kirkland, Doyle Glass, author of Lions of Medina and upcoming book about Operation Swift; Byron Hill (FAO on Swift) and wife Janet , John Lobur (2nd platoon rifleman, rockets on Swift) and wife Jan , JD Murray (company CO) and wife Beth, Fred Tancke (2nd platoon rifleman) and my wife Cheri Lovejoy and myself ( 2nd platoon rifleman, radio operator on Swift)
The 17 hour journey to Vietnam was accomplished in two segments: 13.5 hours to Korea and 4 hours to Hanoi, Vietnam, where we toured many local sights including Ho Chi Minh's tomb, the military museum, and the infamous "Hanoi Hilton." We ate at local establishments which the tour company recommended and where the great meals were part of the cost. We were amazed by the constant activity with all modes of transportation, some carrying huge loads with very few accidents.
After our time in Hanoi, we boarded a train that took us to Hue where we had excellent accommodations, despite the hot and humid conditions that we well remembered. We were pleasantly surprised that most of the hotels had internet access. We enjoyed a two hour cruise on the Perfume River where we saw a variety of watercraft from small rowboats to what appeared to be an old Navy Swift boat that the river patrol was using. Our destination was the Minh Mang tomb, and following that tour we returned to Hue for a Perfume River boat dinner cruise where an eight piece ensemble sang traditional Vietnamese songs and played native stringed instruments. The last song was a musical rendition of the theme from The Godfather. Yes the West has come to Vietnam!!
After leaving Hue we traveled south in our tour bus passing sparkling white beaches, beautiful seas and extravagant resorts. Again, as we encountered in the cities, the startling contrast between the haves and have-nots. We then proceeded to Da Nang, the fourth most populous city, for lunch at a beach restaurant. Vietnam's population has increased to over 85 million from 35 million during the war. After a night at a hotel in Hoi An, we planned our next day when we would head out to the "Knoll" - the place that had lured us back to this country after 40 years. We knew that it would not be easy to locate the site that was so significant to us. We used the coordinates that JD Murray provided, but we learned that one of the villages was no longer there. However, we seemed to be at the correct position in relation to Hill 63. Some of the locals referred to big battles, and one man even mentioned the correct NVA unit. But alas, on this day, we were not successful. ------------ Steve Lovejoy, a California resident, served with Fr. Vincent Capodanno, LT, CHC, USNR during Operation Swift. This is the first of a four part series on his recent return to Vietnam. |